![]() ![]() I have flown this quadcopter around the house many times in FPV, chasing my kids and scaring my wife. This suggests the quad came down before it uses up the battery, possibly because the battery C rating is below demand, or the specified capacity is wrong. There was 211mah pumped into the battery instead of the specified 400mah. I landed the quad when voltage dropped to 3.4V per cell, then I balance charged it on my LiPo charge. It hovered at around 45% throttle (when battery is full), flight times was around 5-6 minutes. My first flight was typical, hovering around the room and see how the wasp flies. There is a screw touching the propellers. On top of that i found an issue with the plastic mounting hole on the carbon frame. ![]() When I armed it, the motors started to spin and one of the props just flew off and went missing…Īfter some searching, I tried a few ideas to avoid another prop flying-away… I found CA superglue worked the best. I prefer to fly in Rate/Acro mode so i didn’t test Angle/Horizon modes. I’ve configured it to arm on one AUX switch and failsafe + beeper on second AUX switch. I’ve setup failsafe to drop immediately as i think it’s a safer option. I tried several different bands and channels with my cyclops FPV goggles (which has auto scanning), every time the image was crystal clear.įinally I put the housing back on, and continued to setup Betaflight, such as Reciever (ibus) + failsafes on FC, low voltage alarm (aka buzzer), RX failsafe and bind were done earlier. It’s not tilted at all, and it’s impossible to do so… as it is glued in place. Second problem I found with the VTX/Camera combo was the tilt angle. One thing I didn’t like was that in order to change VTX channel, you need to first remove the canopy, because there is no quick access to the button. It is a 25mw unit with a dipole antenna as a sting of a wasp – antenna is well placed and hopefully won’t get sucked into spinning props. While I had the canopy removed, I investigated the VTX + camera combo. As you can see the frame has additional cut out to accommodate the cables: I had to unsolder 3 cables and removed the DSM receiver and solder 3 silicon cables for the flysky receiver.Īfter that, I placed my RX in a good spot on top of the FC, and have my antenna reached out like a second “sting”. Underneath you can see the FC and stock receiver, If you own a DSM compatible TX, you don’t need to do this.įirst of all, I removed 5 phillips screws to take off the wasp’s canopy (watch out the 5 screws have different length). Initial check went fine, Gyro and Accelerometer was working as expected, also I did an ACC calibration.īecause I’m a FlySky user, i had to take the wasp apart to replace stock DSM receiver (tiny one) with a flysky receiver. Once connected the FC to computer, I found Betaflight V3.0.1 was already installed. 8 propellers of length 44mm – tri-blade, colours are black and yellowĬonnecting Flight Controller with Computer Via USB, however I encountered a small issue: the USB port location is not easy to access, and the cable didn’t fit due to the placement of the “wasp” housing – my solution was to get an USB extension cable with smaller end.1 battery (orange) 400mah 2s (came charged at 7.83V).Wasp comes in a nice package – well secured, no damage to the drone or the packaging even if the external package was damaged. Pros and cons – what works and what could be improved.First steps – what comes in the box and what was required before first take off.This article is divided into the following sections: There is also another version that support Frsky receivers. The unit we reviewed is version 1 which includes the DSM receiver. The FuriBee Wasp is available at Gearbest (link) in one of three variants:
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